Planes Trains and Automobiles: Zermatt, Switzerland

Getting there

After our lateish arrival into Zurich, we caught a train to Visp before transferring to the Zermatt line at Visp. Both were very comfortable trips - about one hour on each train. The smaller Zermatt train was a cogged train to enable it to clime the steep grades required to get up to approx 2000m above sea level for the village of Zermatt. Some of the grades seemed like one in eight 1:8 or maybe even a little steeper. For comparison, trains in Australia routinely have a maximum grade of one in 30 (1:30). We passed though a number of small villages on the alpine train to Zermatt, a notable one being St Niklaus who had a huge Santa (St Nicholas???) standing next to the train station. Not sure if it is normally a clock tower or if it's specially constructed for the Christmas period, but it certainly stood out.

Giant Santa at St Niklaus

Looking over St Niklaus to see the giant Santa


	What looked like Scottish Highland Cows (Heelan Coos)

Giant Santa over St Niklaus

From the train, we got some amazing views of the Swiss alpine landscape and countryside. The stereotypical Swiss chalet architecture is abundant.

Swiss chalets

Even the farm sheds had a unique style to them. I didn't get a great photo of them, but many of the sheds were sitting on wooden stumps - not that unusual, bit between the joists at floor level and the stumps were what looked like large flat slate stones and unless there was a hole down the centre of the stones, there seemed to be nothing tying the floor joists and the building (usually older farm sheds) to the stumps. It looked like a good shove or a small earthquake would see the whole building slide off the stumps and down the hillside.

Farm shed

Swiss chalets

Sharon & Jemima enjoying the views and the train ride to Zermatt.

Swiss farm buildings.

On the train ride, we got our first glimpses of the higher mountains and the Matterhorn.

The Matterhorn - go on, look at your Toblerone packet - it's the same mountain!

Zermatt Village

Our first night in Zermatt was spent exploring the shops and sampling the local Molino's Pizzarea.


	Max & Jemima with a Swiss cow... :)

Molino's pizza - Yum!

After eating at Molino's Pizza, we assumed that this was a local Zermatt pizza shop, but it turns out that there was a Molino's at Montreux as well - so it's probably a chain. One thing we really noticed was the cost of the food in Zermatt - restaurant main courses started at around CHF20 (Swiss Francs) - around AUD$26.70 for the most basic food - steak was often around CFF50 (AUD$66) - makes eating out with a family of four very pricey. In the end, we just had to bite the bullet and go with it. We knew ahead of time that Zermatt would be expensive and that side of it certainly lived up to expectations. Food at the local supermarket wasn't overly expensive, so the costs must be in staff and real estate. None of the properties for sale in the local Real Estate agent's window had prices on them - they were all marked "price on request" which I guess is code for "If you need to ask how much, you can't afford it". The lift passes for the ski-fields near Zermatt seemed to me to be enormously expensive - for us to get up to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise cost us CHF100 (AUD$133) per adult and CHF50 (AUD$66.60) each for the kids. If we eliminate the cost of the Glacier Paradise itself (which I think was just CFH10 each), that leaves the cable car ride costing CHF90 each - a huge cost per day (IMO) if you're in Zermatt to ski on top of the accommodation and dining costs - you can see why they say that snow skiing is a sport for the wealthy.

Christmas trees for sale - mostly Fur trees by the look of them, maybe some Spruce, but unlike home, no Pine trees to be seen anywhere.

Max & Jemima in centre of Zermatt

Clocktower on the local Catholic church - in the centre of town

The whole of the village was off limits to petrol/diesel vehicles - instead taxi and bus services are provided by Electric boxy taxis and busses. It certainly keeps the centre of Zermatt clean and pedestrian friendly. We did see a couple of normal vehicles driving around - a rubbish truck, an ambulance, but that was about all. There is a road up to Zermatt, so you can drive there, but I have to assume there is a car park at the end of that road and you either walk or take electric taxis from there to get to your accommodation.

Me posing with one of the electric taxis

One of the delights of Europe in my eyes is the street side Crepery - in Zermatt, that's Stephanie's Crepes - and she certainly made tasty sweet and savoury crepes.

Max & Jemima with their favourite crepes - Nutella and Applesauce & Cinnamon

Zermatt centre

Jemima, Sharon & Max in Zermatt's main street

The clocktower on the catholic church in Zermatt.

A couple of (VERY expensive) hotels had horse drawn carriages to get their guests to and from the train station.

The square near the Zermatt train station has a huge Christmas tree that had been decorated by local school children - it was really beautiful and very fitting for the village.

Max, Jemima and Wolli near the Zermatt station

We stayed at the Best Western Alpen Resort in Zermatt, a four star hotel with quite comfortable rooms. We had a family room with two bunks for the kids and two single beds put together to form a queen sides bed for us (as is often the case in European hotels). Below is the view from our room (balcony) of Zermatt and the Matterhorn beyond.

The following morning, this is the view of the Matterhorn that greeted us - beautiful!

For our (only) full day in Zermatt, we had a choice of doing the normal tourist thing of taking the funicular (very steep cogged railway train) to the Goenegrat to see the traditional (and most publicised) view of the Matterhorn or to go up to the Matterhorn Glacier Palace which is much closer to the Matterhorn but looking at the peak from a different (back) view. Both were similar in price. We elected to go with the cable-car ride to the Matterhorn Glacier Palace - we weren't disappointed with the decision.

Matterhorn Glacier Palace

At the highest cable-car accessible point around Zermatt is an ancient Glacier, under which is a hollowed out 'cave' with Ice sculptures. To access it, you catch a couple of cable-cars (as small six seat one and a larger single car that took (perhaps) 50 passengers one car at a time up or down. At the peak (which is close to 4000m above sea level), the air is noticeably thin so exerting yourself results in a tight feeling across your cheat and your heart having to work extra hard. Fortunately there is a lift down to the Glacier for the ice sculptures.

Sharon & Andrew, Ice Queen and King!

Usurpers looking to take the throne!

An Ice version of the Matterhorn peak

Sharon & Jemima with some Ice Goats

Max's Favourite - an Ice Dragon

Sharon & Andrew in an Ice 'snowstorm'

Audi had a sponsored an exhibit


	and a full size Ice Sculpture of a Audi A3

There was an ice slide within the glacier. Max and Jemima had a number of goes.

Mima about to slide down the inside of the Glacier

... and out the bottom

Away she goes

The ceiling of the Ice Throne Room

Matterhorn and surrounding mountains

Up from the cable car arrivals level was a panoramic viewing platform - the highest 360 degree lookout in Europe at 4000m. It was a bit of a climb up some exposed (to the elements) stairs which was hard work, but it was well worth the effort. Sharon and the kids elected not to make the extra walk up to the lookout so I figured I'd better take a few selfies while I was there.

This is my favourite shot a panorama of the Italian (South) side of the Alps

A panorama showing the Matterhorn (to the left), the vally that Zermatt sits in and the cross at the lookout in memory of those that have died on the mountain.

The Matterhorn

Proof I did make the climb to the lookout - it was very cold!

Zermatt is down the bottom of that valley

A peak near the Matterhorn

The top of the cable-car terminal/cafe

More proof I was there!

Memorial cross to commemorate those that gave their lives on the mountain.

Matterhorn (from the back)

The southern view towards Italy

Sharon & the kids at the cable-car arrivals level

Max in the snow

Jemima in the snow

Skiers heading towards Italy

Sharon in the snow

In the meantime, Sharon & the kids enjoyed a hot chocolate in the cafe down at the arrivals level.

I eventually had enough of the cold at the lookout and joined them at the cafe for a coffee.

Charlie made the long cable-car ride with us to the peak.

The lower level small cable cars

Even their chair lifts had covers

Zermatt from (well) above the village

Skiers about half way up the mountain

There were a number of Restaurants/Bars all the way up the mountain with no access other than skiing - I could imagine how expensive these places are!